The Baltics — Defiance & Grit
Storybook old towns, resurgent food scenes and a commitment to
“never forget”.
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On yet another sad day for the world, I try to hold on to the hope I felt at Lithuania’s Hill of Crosses. Rebuilt during the cover of night after numerous Soviet bulldozings from 1961 until 1988, the hill is as much a symbol of the fight against repression as it is a representation of faith. Now, thousands of crosses and dangling rosaries strong, it remains a testament to the enduring nature of human will. As war, terror, and genocide continue to dominate every corner of our burning earth, may we all remember and pray for the power of love over might.
Unlike the measured memories and true socialist leanings found in parts of the Balkans, the vibe in the three Baltic states is one of “never forget, never go back.” These tiny coastal countries were part of the former USSR and had to fight for freedom way past the fall of The Wall. Have you heard of The Baltic Way? Two million people joined hands to form an unbroken human chain spanning 690 kilometers (430 miles) from Tallinn, Estonia; through Riga, Latvia; to end in Vilnius, Lithuania. More than two years of struggles and skirmishes followed this peaceful August 1989 demonstration. True freedom didn’t come to the Baltics until late 1991. During our summer 2022 visit, Ukraine flags flew everywhere and anger toward Russia drove a defiant people along every Baltic road. We felt a young, capitalist energy fueling Tallinn, witnessed tourism ruling in Riga, and sensed a clever cafe and counter-culture vibe in Vilnius. As they continue to evolve, it’s obvious these striving citizenries understand how quickly rights can be stripped away. I feel in my bones that they will remain ever-vigilant and wary of autocratic rule. Do we in the West have the same determination?
At first blush, Tallinn’s storybook beauty seems to tell a tale of a city trapped in time. But while the well-preserved medieval Old Town retains loads of history and charm, the former industrial area of Kalamaja fairly thrums with modern action. A hotbed of mixed-use developments, this ocean-side, live/work/playground of tech companies like Bolt and Wise gives me flashbacks of San Francisco in the 1990s. Mobile bars and food trucks line the waterfront, electric scooters and bikes whiz from one refurbished warehouse to another. A bit further afield, former Soviet-era factories in Telliskivi display colorful new life as a hipster district overflowing with sexy craft breweries, restaurants, and street art. A thriving food scene dominates all neighborhoods.
Check out my free guide to the 10 must-visit Tallinn restaurants on Thatch.co.
