Laos - The Magic of Luang Prabang
Wats, Waterfalls, Monks, Motorbikes & The Confluence of Rivers
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Without planning it, we found ourselves in Luang Prabang at a very auspicious time. Boun Ork Phansa, the end of Buddhist Lent, culminates with the release of two-dozen fire boats the size of mini-vans into the mighty Mekong. Celebrants, musicians, and fire-eaters parade through the streets along with fire boats lit with hundreds of candles. Each has a “tender” to ensure the wax paper creations don’t burst into flames before they reach the river. Once in the water, they slowly float along as fireworks punctuate the night sky. Drifting with the boats are thousands of hand-made floral offerings called Krathongs. Embued with personal meaning, Krathongs help their makers release hatred, grudges, or negative energy. Adam and I made our own during a workshop at the local library the morning before. I let go of the negative energy of baseless fears. Or, at least, promised myself a start.
Clouds float over the ruddy-colored Mekong as the waters of the green Nam Khan flow in and mingle. Dok Champa (the Lao name for Frangipani) scents the air at this spiritual juncture of two rivers.
Motorbikes are a way of life in Southeast Asia and Luang Prabang is no exception. Three layers of schoolgirls (above) is a common sight. We once spied four, splayed out, butchered pigs on the back of a bike in Hanoi. The sticker on the side reads, “City Bear Love.”
Ock Pop Tok means “East Meets West” in Lao. A local woman and a woman from the west (UK) founded a so-named weaving center to lift families out of poverty.
Covered in hand-cut glass tiles, the detailed walls of Wat Xieng Thong date back to 1559. One of Laos most revered temples, the wat was spared during Black Flag Haw’s 1887 sacking of the city because the bandit gang’s leader served there as an acolyte monk.
As someone who has seen waterfalls all around the world, I was skeptical that the crowds and hour-long bumpy ride to Kuang Si Falls would be worth it. Urged by locals and westerners alike, we grabbed our rented motorbike and went with dubious curiosity. Luang Prabang’s most popular tourist destination didn’t disappoint. Each level up the limestone terraces impressed more and more. The shear power of the flow at the top slicked my skin with spray. Even folks jostling for photo spots didn’t dampen the impact of this true force of nature.
Planning a trip to Laos? Check out my free Luang Prabang travel guide on Thactch.co here.
